 | | News Brief III
from the desk of MARY GILLESPIE
Retinyl palmitate and Retin-A (tretinoin), a derivative of Vitamin A, is divided by the FDA into two categories. Retinyl palmitate is allowed in non prescription OTC (over the counter) formulations such as Agera Retinyl P 0.6% Lipogel suited for sensitive skins. Tretinoin, marketed under such names as Retin-A or Renova is only available with a doctor's prescription. Retinyl palmitate converts to retinoic acid at the cell site using an enzyme in the skin. The enzyme-dependent conversion becomes less effective if the skin does not contain high levels of the enzyme. Since the skin lacks high levels the conversion of retinyl palmitate to retinoic acid are low never reaching the strength of Retin-A or Renova’s retinoic acid which comes straight from the container to the skin. The positive side to retinyl palmitate is less irritation, its non-prescription status, and tolerated by 99.9% skin types. Retin-A's new .1% micro gel, which has time-release micro sponges, retains its efficacy and is compared to .025% tolerance. These ingredients marketed and patented for acne and aging, combined with glycolic acid, have shown dramatic results in studies. It is never too late to begin the combination starting with the retinyl palmitate to improve skin texture, color and tone.
Wrinkles and Aging Skin-5 causes
Soft tissue filler list pending FDA approval
- Artecoll-- Non-biodegradable, non-removable filler with collagen containing permanent filler that retains 50-70% of the injected volume, not immune to gravity pull.
- Hylaform -- Injectable clear gel that may be used around the eyes, lifespan of treatment is 6 months, no skin test required..
- Restylane -- Injectable gel designed for dermis application, no skin test required, lifespan of treatment still under question, may not meet expectations of the manufacturer
- Perlane-- Injectable gel designed for dermis application, no skin test required, lifespan of treatment still under question, may not meet expectations of the manufacturer.
- Restylane Fine Lines-- Injectable gel designed for upper dermis fine-lines application, no skin test required, life span of treatment still under question, may not meet expectations of the manufacturer.
FYI-
European doctors have backed off European collagen due to "mad cow" disease.
- Dermalive, a European lip and wrinkle filler, is made of ground-up contact lenses.
- Eyelash loss is often due to eyelash curlers -- L'Oreal makes a good self curling mascara called "Le Grand Curl Mascara".
- Maybelline's "Expert Eyes" eyeshadow really does stay on longer.
Botox, is the trade name of a serum from botulism toxin, which blocks the impulses to the muscles, causing paralysis. One of the five reasons for aging is expression lines. The skin is attached to moving muscles that cause a crease, forming a wrinkle over a period of time. Currently Botox is injected into the frown and eye muscles and is occasionally used after a neck/face lift or laser procedure so as not to wrinkle healing skin. The first year, three injections are needed, spaced approximately 4 months apart, followed by annual injections. Botox has been approved by the FDA for aesthetic use, as of 2002, with increasing popularity due to ease of application and low side effects. Side effects range from bruising at the site of injection, headache, mild dizziness and at the worst a slight eyelid droop that eradicates itself in a short period of time. Patients feel the long-term results of smoother skin outweigh the short-term side effects. I have seen excellent results with Botox, but it is always a personal choice as some feel it may not be an option.
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